The November/December 2005 issue of Departures Magazine holds what it boasts to be the definitive guide to the world's best chocolate: "from sesame nougat bonbons to burnt-caramel ganaches to spiced hot cocoa."
I've selected a few of my favorites. Go to Departures (for American Express Platinum card or Centurian card holders only) for the full article and lists. The article includes "THE ONLY 149 CHOCOLATES YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT" and "TOURS AND CLASSES THAT EVEN WILLY WONKA WOULD LOVE"
E. GUITTARD Since 1868 this Bay Area family has been crafting chocolate in the French tradition. Today they produce some very fine bars and couverture (one of the reasons that inexpensive See's Candies are such a good value is because the company purchases couverture from E. Guittard). I like the rounded fruitiness of the Ambanja bar from Madagascar and the spicy finish of the Chucuri from Colombia. Order at 800-468-2462; www.eguittard.com.
FRAN'S CHOCOLATES Based in Seattle, Fran's offers classic American chocolates with a tasteful wink. A lavender linen gift box tied with a lilac satin bow is filled with straightforward bonbons, their crackling dark couverture (a thin coating) surrounding such subtly flavored ganaches as oolong tea, espresso, and single-malt whiskey—exactly what you want to eat while sprawled on the recamier. But the best offering here is the pure butter caramels, hand-dipped in dark chocolate. Help! Order at 800-422-3726; www.franschocolates.com.
PUCCINI BOMBONI When I lived in Amsterdam, I had a small sideline smuggling these chocolates to American friends. The three spare, sophisticated shops (two in Amsterdam, one in Haarlem) sell fresh confections with flavors like gin, tamarind, fig, and lemongrass, but it's the chocolate-crunch caramels that now have me making smugglers out of friends. Purchase at Netherlands shops; 31-20/626-5474; www.puccinibomboni.com for locations.
RECCHIUTI At the moment, the Bay Area is the epicenter of exciting chocolate. Michael Recchiuti is undoubtedly one of the quiet masters. His burnt caramel is one of my top 10: an intense ganache made from a blend of smoky-sweet caramel and 70 percent bittersweet chocolate. His crunchy sesame is another stunner with its earthy depth and addictive texture, and L'Harmonie Varietal palet d'or lingers on the tongue. Grapefruit tarragon is a leap of faith...but worth it. Order at 800-500-3396; www.recchiuticonfections.com.
Eric Ripert | chef, Le Bernardin
"Every two weeks, I pick up a box at La Maison du Chocolat—I especially like the rochers—and eat it in Central Park while I walk to work in the morning. I also like the premier cru dark chocolates from Valrhona and Michel Cluizel, which I get at the grocery store."
Alan Richman | food writer
"I like See's Candies [from San Francisco]. They're huge—not little wussy designer chocolates. It's a great middle-class product. I also like chocolate that's sold in any crumbling store run by old ladies. You know it's fresh and they're making it."
Alice Waters | founder, Chez Panisse
"I love that Scharffen Berger works with Slow Food to make a rich, earthy, elemental single-varietal chocolate. It is not yet widely distributed, but we served it at the Chez Panisse Café's 25th anniversary. It's produced by sustainable and organic methods, using nacional cacao, a descendant of the cacao trees originally cultivated by the Mayans and found only in Ecuador."
Pierre Hermé | pastry chef
"Daim, a hard and lightly salted caramel covered with milk chocolate; the crusted liqueur chocolate bar from the Swiss company Villars; Absolument Praliné from our production: It's an almond praliné with toasted and salted corn enrobed with dark or milk chocolate, based on the salted and roasted corn served with aperitifs in Spain."